Sunday 31 August 2014

Cheerfully chilled Chillingham

Chillingham Castle, the most haunted castle in Britain, about 10 miles north west of Alnwick
(either use the A1 to go north or take the road to Eglingham from Alnwick )


Home of Sir Humphry Wakefield Br.      
Chillingham from the front
C12th century stronghold
Fully fortified castle in 1344
C18th and C19th embellishments
Grounds by Sir Jeffrey Wyattville

Tea rooms open from 12- 5pm ( so see the wild cattle in the morning, consider a joint ticket).

Entrance to house and gardens: £9 per adult
CLOSED ON SATURDAYS
NE66 5NJ
tel: 01668 215359
www.chillingham-castle.com

31st August 2014

Fantastic walking country
"Look out for the next big junction signed for Chillingham and Chatton," said Himself after we had passed the A6346 junction ... so I took the first junction for Chillingham ... We saw a lot of sheep, heather, clouds and mountains and, after the sensation of maybe being lost had passed, we settled down to enjoy the glorious views over the high dales before the road dropped down between pines and bracken;  we were soon at the great Chillingham gates and entered with that slight sense of trepidation normal people get when they pass between
towering gateposts and spikey bits of metal!


The tone of gothic creep-me-out continued throughout the whole parking experience underneath enormous moss-bedecked trees; read the careful notices disclaiming all responsibility for loss of life and limb whilst on the property; ignore the not so distant bellowing of wild cattle; watch out for the man-traps!

You need to walk a wee distance, less than a quarter of a mile on a wide gravel path, to get to the castle and what a castle!  Battlements, walled gardens, huge and domineering yew trees and statues - and that's only on the outside.  This medieval castle was built to inspire awe and its bat motifs, stone dragons and time-worn stone pediments only add to the somewhat Transylvanian atmosphere. Enter with care.   

Okay, so if you wanted to make a list of everything a medieval castle should have, what would it contain? Armour? Weapons like halberts and stuff? Hand gonnes? Broad swords and chain mail? What about a torture chamber? Ancient tapestries and ragged standards from bygone campaigns? Crusading memorabilia such as war-elephant head armour? A curse from a C17th Spanish witch if you steal from the castle?  Antlers and pelts from exotic beasts; Kingly artefacts and ghosts who tread behind you and leave a chill in the air...?
The C17th witch who curses thieves!

Teenagers will adore it. Anyone who loves a good historical romance or a fantasy by Terry Pratchett will pick up lots of resonances. A History buff like Himself will find the real articles (and there are MANY) on display and be able to touch them.  Perhaps not for the little kids though -  too gory, too surreal!

The family's C20th history is shared with the public too and the handwritten notes betray a deep personal interest and sense of humour.

Need I go on?  The thing about Chillingham, I realised, is that there's an awful lot of history in that place and as the place has stood in one family line since the twelfth century, they've managed to hold on to it in one place.  Amazing to think how one northern family's history has been documented for nearly a millennium.
Saracen armour

Himself and I loved this place.  The knot work garden provides a peaceful and lovely walk for the end of the visit. And we still didn't see the lakes and the cattle will have to wait for another day.  It will be another morning before an afternoon visit to the castle again with the boy and his slightly goth mum.







Imagine having a steam-punk wedding at this location!

Apparently a "presence" has been felt in the gardens...

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